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On May 30th, 2017, in Lucknow city in the Uttar Pradesh province of India by the night train to Gorakhpur, I started my journey for one of the most enthralling adventures ever done. With no porters, no guides, no bookings, just research and curiosity. Reaching Gorakhpur in the morning and taking a bus to the Indian border city, Sonauli, it was a smooth pass. A 2-3 hour bus ride with rural scenes of India and its border conditions. At Sonauli, one actually has to just practically walk across to the Nepal side of the land, also Sonauli. Here, the street would be flooded with Tours and travel agencies ready to take you to Kathmandu and Pokhara, also in general tours as well. 

Getting on the earliest bus to Kathmandu and the 10-12 hour bus ride was horrific. There are actually no roads to Kathmandu, just roads under construction, so the bus actually rolls on mud for a good 10 hours until you reach the city area. Night Kathmandu, a hill city isn't a very charming place anyway and then I get in a taxi to a hotel near the airport. The primary thing to do is bathe and rejuvenate your will to complete your goal you set out to challenge yourself with. Next day, with the Nepali air and sun, you are required to get to the Tourism office to have your TIMS(Trekkers Information and Manage System) card generated for your safety itself. The charges differ for each nationality, the cheapest being for those of the SAARC nations, I got mine all done. [One can also get your Sagarmatha National Park permit made here but it can be conveniently done on the trail for the same price]. Back at the hotel, you complete packing your backpack according to your logic and convenience by keeping warm clothes in accessible locations and so on. As the Yeti Airlines flight is the next morning, you sleep with a slight anxiety and questioning your sanity of doing this how you are doing this, i.e., alone. 

All fresh and heading out to the airport across the road, I went to the domestic airport terminal to catch my flight to Lukla, High Himalayas. The airlines was held up as the Lukla airport was closed due to bad weather and they hoped to resume in a few hours. Now at a small airport like Kathmandu's, the maximum you are able to do is wait. As I did wait, my ears were curious to know if there were other crazies pulling the stunt at this time of the year in a location as remote as Lukla. There were. Always are. Heard somebody inform a lady about the conditions at the Lukla airport and with much curiosity, I questioned, "So, are you too flying to Lukla?". With a positive answer and some information, I met the family of the lady who were all travelling to Lukla to complete the trek to Everest Base Camp. It was morally boosting to see a family stick by through this. We will refer to them as the Ahujas, who were from the U.S. but of Indian origin. Meeting the 4 constituents(father, mother, son and daughter) of the family was how the hours flew by and after a little past noon, the flight was on the edge of being cancelled but thankfully there was an alternative, a helicopter carrying six people to Lukla for a little extra cost. With the family of 4 and their guide, I was the sixth unwanted bone. Finally, what had to be done was done and we get the chopper through fields and hills of green transitioning into the mountainous city of Lukla in the high Himalayas. After landing I followed the family to a lodge where the guide took them, for lunch, after which the trek, the climb, the ascend, the yellow brick road officially started. 

*All figures are approximate and just for reference 

Day 1

Lukla (2800m) - Phakding (2600m)

~3.5 hours ~5k.m. ~8,500 footsteps

The trek started very late as compared to what was planned but I managed to joy ride a chopper to Lukla with the Ahujas. After landing we stopped at Mera Lodge in Lukla where I could only afford a bowl of Mushroom soup for 250 NPR cause of the chopper cause 'Thug Life'. Went a little further up and felt hungry(obviously). With chats of proteins needed by the body I stopped at a small tea shop called Chhutawa which was after Cheplung (place after Lukla). Asked the guy there to boil just 2 eggs for which he was charging 200 NPR. I ordered one. The people in the cafe were merry and drinking, 2-3 people spoke to me. One Pasang and the other  Shera. Both Sherpas. By the time I was suggested to put on my fleece on and the girl (pretty), also Sherpa said "Don't pay, it is free for you" as and when I was taking the Nepali currency out from my pocket. She offered me some tea and some boiled noodles too after which I set out with my headlamp at around 7:00p.m. Alone. Experience. Reaching Phakding and searched for Namaste Lodge where the family was putting up. [I was following the guide/family because they were opting good, hygenic and cheap places. Also because it was morally boosting for me to be around them]. Found the place in the dark and asked the incharge in broken English for one room, one night. It was for a 100 NPR. Sat for dinner with the Ahujas and had noodles for 300 NPR. Post dinner, walked a bit, hoping for the sky to get clear. It didn't. Next day was the trek to Namche Bazaar, and was supposedly the hardest. So at 9:30, it had to be a Good Night. And Good Luck. 

Day 2

Phakding (2600m) - Namche Bazaar (3400)

~8 hours ~7k.m. ~13,600 footsteps

(4k.m. Phakding-Monjo & 3k.m. Monjo-Namche Bazaar)

Body clock set for travelling the mountains, I wake up at 5:30, freshen up, pack, lock room and give keys of Room 101 to the guy in the restaurant as I order some breakfast for myself. The Ahujas also come in. We leave at 7:30 for Namche Bazaar(supposedly the toughest day). Easy walking, crossing small towns like Bengkar, I reach Monjo at around 11:30. Exiting Monjo after getting verified in between for TIMS card and getting the Sagarmatha National Park permit for myself, I catch up with the family in Jorsale, which comes after you have officially entered the national park. We have lunch here at 1. I had to eat light, hence a chicken soup did the trick. It was very good and energising too. Left the restaurant after taking a painkiller for the chest pain I had last night which merely was a muscle strain, I headed out with so much energy for Namche. After a brief easy walk near the river I started my ascend. It was an ascend. Climbing a mountain to the top until you reach Namche was the goal. After just 3 k.m. and ~6500 steps, you reach a check post where you show your TIMS and permit. Post that, entering, you reach Namche in merely 5 minutes. You reach Namche. The Bazaar is ahead of the small town of Namche where children tease the younger one where he does not understand it. Crossing this, you reach a climb again with 40-50 steps(mountainous) and another set of 60-70 steps made to make you enter Namche Bazaar. Shops, cafes and lodges all around. I chose to stay where Dawa(the family's guide) had booked for the Ahujas. I took my room 103 for 300 NPR and washed my face with ice water, changed into crocs and went to the restaurant of the Khumbu Lodge where the family was now. After they left, had a meal of mixed veg and fried potato for 390 NPR and went to the room to rest and I accidentally slept at 5:30 p.m. all the way through dinner. 

Day 3

Rest/Acclimatisation Day - Namche Bazaar

When I say 'Rest Day', means its a day for your backpack to rest. Waking up in the morning to a sunny blue sky, the High Himalayas visible, it was a good feeling. Going in to the restaurant to have an omelette for 350 NPR was the only option to give the needed energy as I had planned a solo climb to the Everest view point and Hotel at 3880m in Shyamboche. Since I had to do this acclimatisation hike alone as the family was looking after the boy who felt unwell, I started my ascend blind with no idea where to go. Asking every person along the way I made it to the trail. Made a Malaysian friend who was also crazily doing this alone, Tee he said his name was because the Chinese name would confuse me. Trekking upwards, we started to see a stretch of snow land mountains. Coming to the airport(now closed), we saw the hotel we had to go to. We took a route through the Everest view point to the Everest view hotel. Eyes widened when I saw Everest behind some mountains(its foothills), it was as white as it could be. We headed from there to the cafe which also offered  a spectacular view of the highest peak. Had a cheese omelette there for lunch for 350 NPR, waited and noticed the Everest for a while until the clouds started to come in. The plan was to go to Khumjung School, but cancelled because of unpredictable weather. We started descending back to Namche and I lost him after sometime(don't know why/how). Easy descent from hotel of about 120 steps and then a massive 350+ steps to Namche. The trail was easy and a must do. Reaching Namche, I headed to my lodge where the Ahujas were. They did a very short hike nearby just to glimpse Everest. I left at ~8.00 and was back by ~3.00 in the afternoon. Reaching the hotel up top at 11:30 around with an average of 3,100 footsteps and 1.5 k.m., took a well deserved rest and woke up for dinner. Having Sherpa stew with meat for 300 NPR. Tomorrow I trek to Tengboche alone as the family possibly won't because of the unwell boy. 

Day 4

Namche Bazaar (3400m) - Tengboche (3800m)

~8 k.m. ~7.5 hours ~14,000 footsteps

Had a (relatively) late sleep but woke up at 6 in Namche Bazaar. Felt lousy and indecisive about doing Tengboche completely solo, but finally pushed myself off the bed, got packed, ready for some Jam and Toast for 300 NPR. Had just finished eating and was drinking the 1L water slowly so that I could refill and leave. Sanjay Ahuja came in with his son who was better and then his came in his wife, Mrs. Ahuja. As I started to leave, the wife suggested to have a photograph with me and the family. Left for Tengboche, completely dazed, unknown but figured the way out. On the itinerary I followed, the description for the day was that it had steep ascents, descents and some more ascents with noticeable thin air. All through the way I felt like "okay, this is the descent maybe and that could be the last ascent'. At a stop after near Khumjung, at a tea shop, met a solo traveller from Mumbai, Siddhartha, 40, and he and I tagged ourselves as 'not solo anymore'. Finally we went down(the descent). Reaching a bridge finally crossing Dudh Kosi river to the Tengboche mountain. Before crossing that, had lunch at a lodge right on the riverbanks. It was 12 and it was about to get strenuous. I ordered a plain rice for 350 NPR and asked them to add a little cheese to it for which they charged 50 more. That was the cheapest meal. Left now for the ascend after getting TIMS checked, and boy this would beat any ascent anywhere. Thin air and you just still keep climbing straight up to the top. Arriving finally to the top and the back of the mountain, there was Tengboche and made its way to the top of the difficulty list. Siddharth booked separate rooms in Himalayan Lodge which after some friendly talk costed 100 NPR. Sat in the common area/restaurant where a group of English people and a person from Dubai, group of 3, entered. All resided in Dubai. We all chatted up telling each the story behind this adventure where we meet in the High Himalayas.  There was a fireplace/a heater, around which Siddharth, Amar, Emily, Spence and I sat. At night I ordered some fried potato with veggies and cheese for 350 NPR. Siddharth went off to his room while Amar, Spence, Emily, their guide and I started a game of Uno. We had 10 rounds where I won 2, Spence 3, their guide 4 and Amar 1 (Emily left for bed after a bit). It was a night of fun. Dingboche it was for tomorrow and they were heading to Pheriche and we all went off to beds. 

Day 5

Tengboche (3800m) - Dinboche (4400m)

~4 k.m. ~6 hours ~7,500 footsteps

In Tengboche, the morning felt a little lazy at 5:45. Pushed off to the restaurant at 6 though. Had some Jam and toast, paid my total of 1300 NPR. Waited for Siddharth and then went along the trail to Dingboche. The trail at first seemed easy and jolly crossing towns of Deboche and Pangboche, where I bought some sunscreen for 900NPR! While moving along, a town in view gave hope that we'd be there soon. The town turned out to be Somare, where we stopped for lunch at 11:30. Had my first of the trip Dal Bhaat at Sonam Restaurant. Forgot to mention, in Tengboche, had my first ever cup of tea (lemon) and realised why I don't drink tea anyway. As we were about to leave, a German girl entered and we spoke to her for a while. She might meet me somewhere ahead. Moving along, Siddharth decided to take a chopper back to Lukla from EBC if not expensive, which was ok with me cause I would have made the German girl my companion. Stepping along the now ascending trail, it began to rain lightly. We kept moving forward as there was no going back. The rain came and went along but Dingboche was not around any corner. The trail got pretty flat and there was no sign of life. Finally seeing Dingboche, I felt relief and rushed to towards it. Couldn't find the Family lodge recommended by the Ahuja's guide so took a room in Yak Lodge. All the rooms were made of just plywood, including the beds. Hollow plywood. Toilets were not very usable either so I decided to move the next day as in Dingboche they recommend to spend an acclimatisation day. Siddharth wasn't feeling very well, so after giving him some medicine, I thought of resting my back for a while on the bed and woke up in 20 minutes feeling as if I was drugged and drained.  Went to the dining area where I met a Canadian guy, also doing the EBC with some other trails in a group. Stuff like this inspires me to move on ahead. Had some plain rice with cheese again for 450/- and headed back to the ply room but along the way, got a marvellous view of Everest all moonlit which made me run for the camera and get some shots after which I finally went to bed. 

Day 6

Rest/Acclimatisation Day - Dingboche

This rest day was a rest day. Woke up early and tried to sleep some more but couldn't. First thing off bed was breakfast and then asked Sid to come search for another lodge. We went to the Dingboche Gompa situated separately from the town area at a little height and he taught me a breathing technique, that of Wim Hof which helps in acclimatisation. He meditated there and I walked down around the mountain town side to find a better accommodation. Unable to find the 'Family Lodge' I checked out a place with a fancy exterior called Bright Star Hotel and it was so much better. Went back to get my backpack and asked Sid to join and we migrated to the new hotel. Walked around the sparsely populated and hilly town to warm-up for tomorrow's climb to Lobuche. Found out that 'che' means a ridge/hilltop. Had cheese toast in the morning for 350 NPR and then lunch at Bright Star, plain rice with cheese for another 450/-. Dinner was a mini treat of 500 NPR, a delicious potato cheese burger. Was a mellow and quiet day. Later, by the fire in the restaurant, chatted up with a French girl who was trekking with an Indian friend of hers. In the room, at the end, alone and hoping Sid is fine and able enough to accompany me throughout cause it gets unwillingly quiet at times. Although, if he isn't, that's what I came here to do, what I chose. No mercy. Still feels hard to believe I'll be touching base camp in another day. All set and prepared for it. 

Day 7

Dingboche(4400m) - Lobuche(4930m)

~4 k.m. ~7 hours ~7,500 footsteps

Rubbing my sleepy eyes after the easy rest day in Dingboche, felt so lazy but you got to push it anyhow. Ate some corn flakes for a hiking price of 350/-. Left the hotel at around 7:30 and started heading towards Lobuche. At first, the climb was gentle and reaching the top of the hill, it got confusing. There were two ways, both without markers. Waited for some time, asked someone for directions and headed straight into the plain spread land. It was a soulless land. After walking through and reaching a descent and getting down, there was a tiny place across the river on the trail called Thukla. Had 2-3 lodges, where in 1, Sid and I ordered some lunch at 11:30 in Kala Pathar Lodge. Just had a tomato soup for some 450 /- After this place, the ascension to Lobuche started. A steep, standing climb with thin and thinner air bringing to a huge memorial for the Sherpas who lost their lives while climbing the Everest summit. It was a real achievement to be there. Slowly, steadily reaching Lobuche and paying a no concession fee of 500 NPR (the 2015 tremors affected the area so this is setup by development group), and searching for a decent place, we land in New EBC Guest House. A good newly built place. Entering it, met a very fine young solo traveller girl from Peru. We discussed of places covered and with her interest in capturing images, I showed her mine while invoking envy in her. The Didi was an amazing cook at the place. Ordered some fried noodles for 450/- and sat by the fireplace where I meet the French girl again. Brushed some of my French with her and went off to my room after. Was so cold at night and was so tired that I couldn't even actually write. The climb was not very tough to Lobuche, but was very difficult because of dimmer oxygen levels. Woke up at 12:30 a.m. with a  headache, all paranoid but tried to calm myself by saying "What would Jesus do?" Had an option to have Diamox(breathing medicine) or a painkiller and I chose the latter which helped me sleep comfortably. 

Day 8

Lobuche(4930m) - Gorakshep(5164m)

~3 k.m.  ~5 hours  ~5,000 footsteps

Finishing some omelette for around 510/- (cheapest stuff), left for Gorakshep  (a 2-2.5 hour walk apparently). Met Spence and Emily along the way who assured we were 2 hours away. However, I came across a straight hike after trekking some plain ground.  It was breathtaking. Literally. Going up, and going across boulders, flowing glacier waters and walking up and down a couple of hills when Gorakshep finally came across. Took my room in Buddha Lodge (suggested by the Peru girl). Had some macaroni cheese for 700/- and went up Kala Pathar to maybe view Everest. Unlucky, came back down to the lodge and rested a while. Had some tomato soup for 400 NPR to keep me warm for the night and went off to bed. The coming day, 10th of June, was going to mark the completion of my mission uno. 

10th June, 2017

Everest Base Camp

Waking up at 6 and leaving for Everest Base Camp at 7 was the first thing to do. After 2 hours, 2 k.m. and 3,500 steps, and 2 wrong points, it was Base Camp, Mount Everest. A glacier land with prayer flags and rocks with one stating 'Everest Base Camp 2017'. That feeling there was some stuff of the legends. A stone throwaway distance from the Khumbu glacier and Khumbu icefall, it was a land made of ice and rejoice. The energy around there, full of optimism and serenity and hope, was so rejuvenating. It brought you back to life. A place where it was just me and silence with sounds of ice crackling and breaking periodically. Bliss. 

Headed back to Gorakshep at 11 and had some really bad Dal Bhaat after which I headed for Pheriche. 

Day 9

Gorakshep(5164m) - Thukla(4600m)

~6 k.m. ~6 hours ~15,000 footsteps

Skipping Lobuche, I headed on at a fast pace with the glorious feeling of having touched base camp the same day. At the memorial for climbers who lost their lives it started pouring raining. Rushing back down on the steep way I reach Lukla where it was decided to take refuge instead of walking the clouded land to Pheriche and the rain was not a good sign too. Had a boiled egg for a high price which was followed by some rice and cheese costing 800/- in total. Now planning to sleep  cause tomorrow I have to pull it directly to Namche Bazaar. 10 hour walk. Cause I can. 

Day 10

Thukla(4600m) - Namche Bazaar(3400m)

~15 k.m. ~12 hours ~25,000 footsteps

Leaving from Thukla as early as 5:30 for Namche was executed. Speeding my walk up to Pheriche, a well maintained and seemingly planned town with metamorphic rocks enclosing and high mountains surrounding, I had a cheese omelette and aimed at reaching Tengboche for lunch.  Reached Tengboche and ate some veg Sherpa stew and started my descent from the formerly strenuous climb. All things were speeded up because there was a good feeling knowing that I had completed my aim and that I am on my way home. Entering Namche and finding the same Khumbu Lodge to stay in, I just relaxed my feet. Having completed one dal bhaat here for dinner, entered the partial Ahuja family. The mother and son who did not go forward due to the son's health which seemed much better now. Telling tales of my conquest and trail across I then left to take a deserving rest and slept till morning very much in peace. 

Day 11

Namche Bazaar(3400m) - Lukla(2800m)

~20 k.m. ~7 hours ~34,000 footsteps

Easy morning in Namche, I head out for breakfast where I find Mrs. Ahuja preparing some aloo parathas for me as we spoke of Indian food the night before. I got an endless supply of parathas coming to my plate and I had my first filling meal in all these days. It was so good to be there in the cold at an elevation and have such food. Thanks to her, I did. Left the place after paying my bills and headed out for Lukla at late hours, 8:30 a.m. The descend from Namche was not ending until I finally heard the river not very distant and it brought relief. With a full stomach I skipped lunch at 11 and kept on heading straight to Lukla. Reaching Phakding and going to the same lodge for food where I took my shoes off and relaxed and ate some dal bhaat again and left again for Lukla after 1 hour, at 4. Crossing checkpoints and some tiny towns and with darkness right at the doorway I see the silhouette of the gateway I entered on Day 1. Walked on to the airport side and tried to look for lodges which were open in this off season. With some asking around I ended up in Buddha Lodge. The place was quiet with not many people. It actually just had 2 Irish boys who had been stuck there without money for 2 days cause the flights to Lukla were being cancelled. Had some light food because I was too low on cash and there was no way to withdraw money anymore. I went to my room and slept for good with my shoes packed and my crocs on duty. 

Day 12

Lukla

Opening my eyes to a clouded window, I closed my eyes again until I heard the sound of what seemed like an airplane. I immediately rushed to the top to see if flights were coming in but they weren't. Had to run around a lot and all throughout the city figuring out a way to get to Kathmandu. Finally arranged for a helicopter which was supposed to leave at 3. At 2:30 I got a call saying that the flights are coming in so the helicopter is a no go. The flights did come in but took people stuck there for days as priority. The flights having being planned to return, couldn't, because the weather got bad again and then it got dark which made me miss my helicopter ride too. Had 300 NPR left which was just about enough for the room. Slept hungry. 

Day 13

Lukla

Opening my eyes, starving in the morning, I leave for the airport as and when I was called. 5:45 a.m. Getting out of the room, all packed and ready with rested feet I walk in the still clouded city of Lukla to the airport next door. The people are checking in holding their boarding passes which gave me hope. Still skeptical about the flight landing I whiled time away by trying to avoid everybody who was eating. Waited for hours there at the airport. The flight back to civilisation is still nowhere to be seen until 9 a.m. The sound travels in and the first flight here was mine which ran on the 'what you would not call a runway' and land you at Kathmandu after about 45 minutes. It did. I was safe with my backpack, camera and sanity. Got myself a bus to Varanasi, India which was the earliest and carried forward to Lucknow. The glory traveled with me to have completed this alone and have touched Base Camp, Mount Everest. Might not have been the only one to pull this off as crazily, it still was stuff of the legends.

There ended that chapter on 14th June, 2017, which sure would be revisited with my group of people somewhere in the future with new tales and probably new heights(even the one which stood the tallest around the world). 

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